![]() I am looking at the Aeros plans right now. I know this project can be done, but it will be a Jon. I'll dig around and see of I can find any old photos, I have them somewhere. ![]() The airframe frame was complete, and I was at about 120 Pounds, without the clutch, rotor hubs or blades. My G-1A had a 503 Fan cooled engine and and a 75 HP Evinrude transom mounted in the frame. You MUST have a force air engine, free air won’t cut it. Use 60 to 70 HP forced air engine like a Hirth or equivalent. You have the clutches assembly, 90Deg trans, tail rotor and associated bearings, and rotor head drive. You will want to aim for a 65HP or 70 HP air cooled engine, as you are turning engine power through a lot more bearing points than just an airplane engine does. ![]() I fully believe that you can make a G1-A for less than 254 pounds, but it will be close at the end. Most people will never know you are using it, unless they remove the cover plate and inspect. 040 aluminum cover to hide transmission from view. If you are concerned that people will be alarmed in seeing a helicopter using an Evinrude boat transom as the right angle gear box, that is also not a problem. It’s also rated by HP which it is engineered for, so you know you won’t blow the angle drive under flight load. Of course you have to modify the input and output shafts at a machine shop and use appropriate drive shaft couplings, but the gearing in the transom helps step down engine RPM, which you will need to do anyway.Ī second bonus of modifying the lower end of a boat motor transom is that it’s built out of aluminum, so it’s light weight. It may seem funny, but a great 90 Deg angle transmission that is (DIRT) cheap to obtain and (EASY) to mount in a shop built frame is the lower part of the transom of a 75 to 90 HP outboard boat motor. This however requires the use of a clutch, a gear box / 90 Deg angle transmission, and a final step down gear at the rotor head. This is not really a problem you just need to mount the engine like you do in a big chopper with a horizontal crankshaft output. I'm talking about snowmobile style engines here generally speaking. The thrust bushings on the crankshaft ends of most 2 strokes are not intended to function is this manner for any length of time. The problem is that the weight of the crank shaft should generally not rest constantly on the thrust bushing at what is (now) the lower end of the engine, or it will polish it to oblivion in probably under 50 hours, even with 20:1 oil mix. They can be in that orientation temporarily, such as in a loop-the-loop. To be honest, I don’t know of any engine manufacturer that authorizes such orientation under normal operating conditions. The original G1 used three 15 HP go-cart engines and never flew. The engine problem…the G-1 has the crankshaft(s) of the engine(s) mounted in the vertical axis. You can adapt those parts from different designs easily enough however. ![]() To make a G-1 a functional helicopter, you need a full collective rotor head, and full functioning (real) tail rotor. Also, never fly a fixed pitch helicopter at any altitude higher than you intend to fall, as autorotation is not possible. Theories are great until a tiny wind poofs you. #1 you can’t fly a weight shift helicopter, it just doesn’t really work. There are several substantial problems with a G-1 that need worked out. A divorce eliminated the project funding, and the ex took it for psych-ops effect. I also built most of a G1 about 15 years ago just as a tinkering project. Well good luck on your project and keep us posted. I know there are a couple of pictures of the G1 "flying", or is it? But keep in mind that there aren't any videos of the G1 or G1xl flying, hovering or even running up (as far as I know). I think just about everyone has thought about the G1 at some time. There are several motorcycle engines that you could use. The tail rotor could still be belt driven but the whole tail rotor itself would need to be re-designed, the Aeros also has a very good tail rotor system that is easy to build. Of course you could use elastomeric bearings but then they can cost as much as the whole machine. I think that the main issue with any small rotor head is finding suitable and reliable thrust bearings. It is simple, easy to build and conventional. I like the Aeros rotorhead and swashplate. With that being said you could use just about any conventional rotor head and swashplate system that you wanted to install. After wasting a lot of time and money finding parts and supplies I realized that if I finished all that I would have would be a contraption spinning blades held on with nylon sheet and a tail rotor that used spring door hinges. I actually built most of a G1 about 15 years ago.
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